Find out more about hair dyes

Mastering hair color is a form of craftsmanship: it requires expertise, precision and customization. Each technique matches a specific need and result, this is why I wanted to provide you with a simplified explanation of the different techniques.

 

 

PERMANENT HAIR COLOR DYES

Makes it possible to lighten between 2 to 4 tones or to darken the hair.

TECHNIQUE: called “oxidation dye” = 6% to 9% oxidative agent + colorants + alkaline agent (very often ammonia).

PROCEDURE:

  1. The alkaline mixture swells the hair fiber, facilitating the penetration of the color within the hair cuticles.
  2. Once inside, it dissolves the natural hair pigment (which is responsible for the oxidation effect and the appearance of brassy tones over time)

Actions 1 and 2 take place simultaneously.

  1. Artificial or color pigments are deposited inside the fiber, recoloring the hair.

DURATION: permanent.

MAINTENANCE: Application to the roots approximately once a month to hide the color of new growth.

 

 

BLEACHING OR HIGHLIGHTING  

TECHNIQUE: called “oxidation bleaching” = 6%, 9% or 12% oxidative agent + bleaching agent or bleaching /coloring agent + alkaline agent. 

PROCEDURE:

  1. The alkaline mixture swells the hair fiber, facilitating the penetration of the color within the hair cuticles.
  2. Once inside, it dissolves the hair’s natural pigments to obtain the desired lightening.

Actions 1 and 2 take place simultaneously.

DURATION: permanent.

 

 

DIRECT HAIR COLOR

TECHNIQUE: Using non-botanical pigments – but no chemical process – the pigments coat the hair fiber. PROCEDURE:

  1. To optimize the hold of the pigments, hair is prepared with an alkaline pH shampoo. This very slightly opens the hair cuticles.
  2. The pigments coat and cling to the hair shaft.

DURATION: Completely fades within a few washes, leaving the hair fiber in its original state.

MAINTENANCE: To be reapplied as often as necessary. No root effect.

 

 

SEMI-PERMANENT / TONE-ON-TONE DYES

Makes it possible to lighten between 1/2 to 1 tone or to darken the hair. While this type of treatment is called “tone-on-tone” or “gloss”, it is still an oxidation dye.

TECHNIQUE: 3% oxidative agent + colorants + alkaline agent (in a smaller concentration than in a permanent hair color).

PROCEDURE:

  1. The alkaline mixture swells the hair fiber, facilitating the penetration of the color within the hair cuticles.
  2. Once inside, it dissolves the natural hair pigment (which is responsible for the oxidation effect and the appearance of brassy tones over time). Actions 1 and 2 take place simultaneously.
  3. Artificial or color pigments are deposited inside the hair shaft.

DURATION: 6 to 8 weeks.

MAINTENANCE: The root effect is less visible since the color fades, but the lightened base appears and can create unsightly brassy undertones in the case of chestnut shades, for example.

 

  

VEGETAL HAIR COLOR

TECHNIQUE: Using henna and indigo-type botanical pigments, mixed with hot water – but involving no chemical process – pigments coat the hair fiber.

Note: when the pigments have to be mixed with an ingredient other than water, it indicates the presence of an alkaline or slightly oxidative agent within the formula.

PROCEDURE: To optimize the hold of the pigments, hair is prepared with an alkaline pH shampoo. This very slightly opens the hair cuticles. The botanical pigments coat and cling to the hair fiber.

DURATION: Very often permanent and indelible, especially if henna-based.

ATTENTION: This type of color respects the integrity of the hair shaft, but does not follow the traditional laws of oxidation color. The hair can never be lightened thereafter.

 

direct hair color